In short: Beyond zardozi and dabka, a handful of metalwork elements give fine embroidery its richness and contrast. Naqshi creates fine outlines and filled motifs; kora is a crimped, matte coil that plays against shinier work; tilla is the traditional technique of working metallic thread into patterns; and kamdani is lighter metalwork for a delicate all-over glimmer. The magic is in the mix — matte against shine, raised against flat.
The depth in a beautiful piece of embroidery comes from combining elements with different finishes. Here's the rest of the metalwork vocabulary, building on our full embroidery guide.
The four explained
| Element | What it does |
|---|---|
| Naqshi | A flattened metallic element for fine outlines and filled motifs |
| Kora | A crimped, matte coil that adds contrast against shiny work |
| Tilla | Metallic thread worked into patterns; a regional hallmark |
| Kamdani | Lighter metalwork on fine fabric for delicate shimmer |
Naqshi
Naqshi uses a flattened metallic thread to draw crisp outlines and fill shapes. It often defines the edges of a motif, giving the design clarity and structure so the heavier elements within it read clearly.
Kora and the matte-versus-shine effect
Kora is crimped and matte, which makes it the perfect partner to shiny dabka. Skilled embroiderers use the contrast deliberately — matte kora beside bright dabka — so the work catches light unevenly and looks alive rather than flat. It's a key reason fine handwork has such depth.
Tilla
Tilla refers to working metallic thread (traditionally gold or silver) into patterns, and it's especially associated with regional craftsmanship. It can be bold and graphic or fine and delicate, depending on the design.
Kamdani
Kamdani is lighter metalwork, often on fine or sheer fabric, creating a soft all-over glimmer rather than dense, raised motifs. It's a beautiful choice when you want shimmer without weight — a little like how mukaish scatters tiny points of light.
Why the mix matters
A truly rich piece rarely relies on one element. It layers naqshi outlines, kora and dabka texture, tilla patterning and perhaps resham colour and sequins — each doing a different job. That layering is the difference between flat decoration and embroidery with real life and depth. See what drives embroidery cost for how this affects price.
Frequently asked questions
What is naqshi work?
Naqshi uses a flattened metallic element to create fine outlines and filled motifs, often defining the edges of a design for clarity and structure.
What is kora and how is it different from dabka?
Kora is a crimped, matte metallic coil, while dabka is typically shinier. They're often used together so the matte and shine contrast and the work looks dimensional.
What is kamdani?
Kamdani is lighter metalwork, usually on fine fabric, creating a delicate all-over shimmer rather than dense, raised motifs.
Why do embroiderers combine different elements?
Because each finish — matte, shiny, raised, flat, coloured — does a different job, and layering them gives the work depth and life rather than a flat appearance.
At AÏNN London we layer these traditional elements by hand, and we're happy to explain the work on any piece. Ask us anything.
Last updated: June 2026
