What Drives Embroidery Cost? Kora, Dabka, Resham

Quick answer: Embroidery is usually the biggest driver of a Pakistani outfit's price. The cost comes down to the technique, the materials and the hours of handwork. Fine metallic work like kora and dabka (coiled metal wire) is slow, skilled and material-heavy, so it costs more; resham (silk thread) work is beautiful but generally less costly than dense metal work; zardozi, sequins, beads, pearls and stones each add their own labour and material cost. The denser the embellishment and the more hand-done it is, the higher the price — because you're paying for hundreds of artisan hours.

When you ask "why does this outfit cost what it does?", the answer is almost always in the embroidery. Here's what drives that cost.

The three cost drivers

  • Technique: some types of work are far slower and more skilled than others.
  • Materials: real metal wire, silk thread, stones and pearls cost more than synthetic substitutes.
  • Hours of handwork: the single biggest factor — dense, hand-done embellishment takes hundreds of hours.

(See hand vs machine embroidery.)

The key embroidery techniques — and their cost

Technique What it is Relative cost
Kora & dabka Coiled metal wire work High
Zardozi Raised metal-thread work High
Resham Silk thread embroidery Moderate
Sequins & beads Applied sparkle Varies with density
Pearls & stones Hand-set embellishment Adds up quickly

Kora and dabka: why they cost more

Kora and dabka are forms of fine coiled metal wire, hand-couched onto the fabric. The work is slow and highly skilled, the material is real metallic wire, and dense coverage takes enormous patience — which is why heavily kora/dabka-worked pieces sit at the top of the price range.

Resham: beautiful, often more affordable

Resham (silk thread) embroidery is lush and colourful and can be intricate, but thread is generally less costly than dense metal work — so a resham-led design can give a rich look at a gentler price point. Many outfits blend resham with touches of metal work.

Why density and "all-over" work raise the price

A lightly embellished piece with placed motifs uses far fewer hours than an all-over, fully worked bridal. That's why our partywear involves around 200 artisan hours, while heavy bridal can take 800+ hours. (See why bridal prices vary.)

How to read embroidery value

Genuine craftsmanship, fair price

AÏNN London uses genuine techniques and materials, made to your measurements in your exact shade from 900+ hand-dyed colours, with a video before dispatch and duties included (free over £500). You see exactly where the value goes. (See why we film your outfit.)

Browse the bridal collection, the party wear collection, or explore the colour library.

Frequently asked questions

What makes Pakistani embroidery expensive?

Three things: the technique (some work is far slower and more skilled), the materials (real metal wire, silk thread, stones and pearls cost more), and the hours of handwork — the biggest factor, since dense hand-done embellishment takes hundreds of hours.

What's the difference between kora, dabka and resham?

Kora and dabka are forms of fine coiled metal wire work, slow and skilled and material-heavy, so they cost more. Resham is silk thread embroidery — lush and intricate but generally more affordable than dense metal work. Many designs blend them.

Why does all-over embroidery cost more than placed motifs?

Because it takes far more hours. A lightly embellished piece with placed motifs uses fewer artisan hours, while an all-over, fully worked bridal can take 800+ hours of handwork — and the price reflects those hours.

How can I judge embroidery value?

Look at the coverage (all-over vs placed), the technique (real metal work vs thread), and the finish (hand-done vs machine). A higher price should reflect more hours and better materials, not just a brand name.

AÏNN London uses genuine embroidery techniques and materials, made to measure in 900+ shades with a video before dispatch — so you can see exactly where the value goes. Browse the collection.

Last updated: June 2026