In short: Pakistani hand embroidery is a family of related crafts, most worked on a wooden frame with a fine hook or needle. The metalwork techniques — zardozi, dabka, tilla, naqshi, kora and kamdani — build the rich, raised, light-catching surfaces seen on bridal wear. The thread, ribbon and dot techniques — resham, gota, mukaish and chikankari — bring colour, softness and delicate shimmer. Most fine outfits combine several. Understanding them helps you read quality, and explains why two similar-looking pieces can be worlds apart in value.
When you look closely at a beautifully worked lehenga, you're seeing not one technique but several, layered by hand over many hours. This is a plain-English guide to the main ones — what they are, how they differ, and what they tell you about a piece.
The metalwork family
These techniques use metallic threads, wires and coils to create the opulent, dimensional surfaces associated with bridal and formal wear.
| Technique | What it is |
|---|---|
| Zardozi | Raised metallic embroidery using gold/silver threads, often over padding for dimension |
| Dabka | Fine coiled metallic wire couched onto fabric for a textured, matte-to-shiny finish |
| Tilla | Metallic thread (traditionally gold or silver) worked into patterns; a hallmark of regional craftsmanship |
| Naqshi | A flattened metallic element used to create fine outlines and filled motifs |
| Kora | A crimped, matte metallic coil that adds contrast and depth alongside shinier work |
| Kamdani | Lighter metallic work, often on fine fabric, for a delicate all-over glimmer |
The metallic thread at the heart of much of this is zari — and its quality matters enormously. See real zari vs imitation for why.
The thread, ribbon and dot family
- Resham: colourful silk threadwork that adds colour and softness rather than shine. See resham explained.
- Gota: flat metallic ribbon appliquéd into borders and motifs — festive and light. See gota work.
- Mukaish: tiny twisted metal dots scattered for a starlit shimmer. See mukaish explained.
- Chikankari: delicate, breathable white-on-white (or tonal) floral threadwork. See chikankari explained.
How they come together
A single bridal piece might pair raised zardozi motifs with dabka and kora for texture, naqshi outlines, resham for colour and a scatter of sequins or beads. The interplay of matte and shiny, raised and flat, is exactly what gives fine work its depth. It's also why hours — not just materials — drive the cost. See what drives embroidery cost.
Why it's worth knowing
Once you can name what you're looking at, you can tell genuine hand embroidery from rushed machine work (see how to spot machine embroidery), understand why an heirloom piece costs what it does, and choose work that will last and be treasured. This is craftsmanship measured in hundreds of hours — a tradition carried by hand from one generation to the next.
Frequently asked questions
What is the difference between zardozi and dabka?
Zardozi is a broad term for raised metallic embroidery, often padded for dimension, while dabka refers specifically to the fine coiled metallic wire that's couched onto the fabric — frequently used within zardozi work.
What is naqshi work?
Naqshi uses a flattened metallic element to create fine outlines and filled motifs, often defining the edges of a design alongside other metalwork.
What is the difference between tilla and zari?
Both involve metallic thread; zari is the general term for the metallic thread itself, while tilla refers to the traditional technique of working that thread into patterns, especially in regional craftsmanship.
Do outfits use just one technique?
Rarely — fine pieces usually layer several, combining raised metalwork, flat outlines, colourful threadwork and shimmering dots for depth and richness.
At AÏNN London we work with these traditional techniques by hand, and we're always happy to explain the embroidery on any piece. Ask us anything.
Last updated: June 2026
