Quick answer: Real zari is metallic thread (traditionally gold or silver) used in zardozi and dabka embroidery; imitation zari is a cheaper plastic-coated or synthetic substitute. Real work has a richer sheen, more weight and far better durability, while imitation can look flat, feel light and tarnish or flake over time. When you pay more for genuine handwork in real zari, you're paying for materials and hours that last — which is exactly why prices vary so much between similar-looking pieces.
"Why does one lehenga cost three times another that looks similar?" Often it comes down to real versus imitation zari. Here's the difference.
What is zari?
Zari is the metallic thread at the heart of techniques like zardozi and dabka. Traditionally it was real gold or silver; today fine-quality zari uses durable metallic thread, while cheaper pieces use a plastic-coated or synthetic imitation. (See what drives embroidery cost.)
Real vs imitation: how to tell
| Real zari | Imitation zari |
|---|---|
| Rich, deep metallic sheen | Flatter, plasticky shine |
| Noticeable weight and structure | Feels light and thin |
| Holds up over the years | Can tarnish, flake or fray |
Why it affects the price
- Materials: quality metallic thread costs more than synthetic.
- Durability: real work survives wear, storage and re-wearing.
- Pairing: genuine zari is usually used with skilled hand embroidery, not rushed machine work. (See how to spot machine embroidery.)
What this means for you
A piece in real zari with genuine handwork is an investment that stays beautiful and can become an heirloom. A bargain piece in imitation zari may look similar in a photo but won't wear or last the same way. If a price seems too good for the look, the materials are usually the reason. (See is cheaper bridal wear worth it.)
Browse the bridal collection, or ask us about the embroidery on any piece.
Frequently asked questions
What is the difference between real and imitation zari?
Real zari is durable metallic thread with a rich sheen and weight; imitation is a cheaper plastic-coated or synthetic substitute that looks flatter, feels lighter and can tarnish or flake over time.
How can I tell if zari is real?
Look for a deep, rich metallic sheen and a noticeable weight and structure to the work. Imitation zari tends to look plasticky, feel thin and wear poorly.
Why does real zari cost more?
Because the materials cost more, the work lasts far longer, and genuine zari is usually paired with skilled hand embroidery rather than rushed machine work.
Is imitation zari ever fine?
For a one-wear, budget party piece it can be acceptable, but for a bridal outfit you'll keep or pass on, real zari with genuine handwork is the better investment.
AÏNN London uses genuine hand embroidery and films every finished outfit before dispatch, so you see exactly what you're paying for. Ask us about any piece.
Last updated: June 2026
