You've measured yourself carefully. You've looked at the size chart. And you're stuck: your bust says Medium but your waist says Small. Or you're right on the line between two sizes. What now?

This is one of the most common sizing dilemmas—and there's a clear strategy for solving it.

The Golden Rule

When in doubt, size UP.

Here's why: A good tailor can easily take in a garment by 2-3 inches at most seams. Letting out is much harder and often impossible—there's limited seam allowance, and embroidery may not extend into that hidden fabric.

A slightly large garment can become perfect with alterations. A too-small garment may be unwearable.

Which Measurement Matters Most?

Different garment types have different "key measurements" that should drive your sizing decision:

For Lehenga (Blouse + Skirt)

Prioritise: Bust

The blouse is the fitted piece that's hardest to alter dramatically. Size for your bust measurement. The lengha skirt typically has more adjustment room at the waist and can accommodate variations more easily.

For Sharara/Gharara Sets

Prioritise: Hip, then Bust

The trousers need to fit over your hips—this cannot be altered significantly. The kameez top can more easily be adjusted.

For Anarkali/Maxi

Prioritise: Bust

These flow freely below the bust, so the fitted chest area is what matters. The rest is designed with ease.

For Shalwar Kameez

Prioritise: Bust for the top; Hip for the shalwar

If they come in a single size, prioritise whichever garment is more fitted in the design you've chosen.

Decision Framework: Size Up or Down?

SIZE UP If:

• Your largest measurement falls into the larger size
• You prefer comfortable ease over body-conscious fit
• You tend to retain water or bloat (especially near events)
• There's any chance of weight gain before the event
• You'll be wearing the outfit for many hours (comfort matters)
• You plan to eat at the event (weddings = lots of food)
• You have access to a good tailor for adjustments
• The garment is heavily embroidered (harder to alter small garments)

SIZE DOWN If:

• Your smallest measurement is in the smaller size AND you have wide alteration margins
• You're actively losing weight and expect to be smaller by the event
• You strongly prefer a snug, body-conscious fit
• The brand runs large (check reviews)
• The style is designed to be oversized/flowing

CONSIDER CUSTOM If:

• Your measurements are significantly different across areas (e.g., bust XL but waist S)
• You're at the very edge of the size range
• You've had persistent fit issues with ready-to-wear in the past
• It's a bridal outfit where fit is crucial

Real Scenarios

Scenario 1: Bust = 36", Waist = 27"

Size chart says: Medium for bust, Small for waist

Choose: Medium

Why: The bust is fitted; the waist can be taken in. A too-small bust is uncomfortable and visible.

Scenario 2: Bust = 34", Hip = 42"

Size chart says: Small for bust, Large for hip

Choose: Large (or custom)

Why: You need the garment to fit over your hips. The bust can be taken in more easily than hips can be let out. Consider custom for best results.

Scenario 3: All measurements at the very top of Small

E.g., Bust 35" (Small goes up to 35"), Waist 28" (Small goes up to 28")

Choose: Medium

Why: You're at the absolute limit. Any fluctuation, any tightness, and you'll be uncomfortable. Medium gives you breathing room.

Scenario 4: Bust = 37.5" (exactly between M and L)

Choose: Large

Why: You're right on the line, so go larger. A slightly loose blouse looks better than a straining one.

Scenario 5: Standard sizes don't work at all

E.g., Bust 32", Waist 34", Hip 44"

Choose: Custom sizing

Why: Your proportions don't match standard size assumptions. A custom order will fit much better than trying to alter a ready-made size.

What About Weight Fluctuations?

If You're Trying to Lose Weight

This is tricky. Options:

• Conservative approach: Order for your current measurements. Alterations can be done closer to the event.
• Optimistic approach: Order smaller, but only if you have plenty of time for alterations AND a backup plan if weight loss doesn't happen.

Reality check: Many brides plan to lose weight and don't. The stress of wedding planning often leads to weight gain instead. Be honest with yourself.

If You Tend to Bloat

Consider when you typically bloat (time of month, after eating, etc.) and whether this will coincide with your event. If there's any chance, size up and take in later.

If You're Pregnant or May Become Pregnant

Obviously, this changes everything. See our pregnant wedding guest guide for specific advice.

Brand-Specific Considerations

Different brands size differently. Before ordering:

• Check reviews: Do customers mention it runs small or large?
• Compare size charts: A "Medium" at one brand may be a "Small" at another. Always go by measurements, not size labels.
• Ask customer service: If you're between sizes, describe your measurements and ask for their recommendation.

At AÏNN London, our sizes include 3-5 inches of alteration margin. If you're between sizes, we generally recommend going up—you can always take it in.

The Custom Option

If you consistently find yourself between sizes, custom sizing might be worth considering:

When Custom Is Worth It

• Your proportions differ significantly from standard sizing
• The garment is high-value (bridal, special occasion)
• You want to avoid alteration costs and hassle
• Time allows for custom production

AÏNN London Custom Sizing

We offer custom measurements at no extra charge. You provide your exact measurements, and the garment is made specifically for your body. This adds approximately 1-2 weeks to production but eliminates sizing uncertainty.

After You Order

Whichever size you choose:

1. Try it on immediately when it arrives
2. Wear the correct undergarments during fitting
3. Move around — sit, bend, raise arms
4. If adjustments needed — find a tailor promptly, not last-minute

Summary

Still Unsure?

Contact our team with your exact measurements and the outfit you're considering. We'll give you a personalised recommendation.

• WhatsApp: +44 7447 196992
• Email: hello@ainnlondon.com
• Video Consultation: Book here