Quick answer: When you fall between two sizes, size up — a tailor can take a garment in by a few inches far more easily than letting it out. Let the most fitted, hardest-to-alter area drive the decision: bust for a lehenga or anarkali, hips for a sharara or gharara. If your proportions are very different across areas (say bust XL, waist S), choose custom sizing instead.
You've measured carefully and checked the size chart, and you're stuck: your bust says Medium but your waist says Small, or you're right on the line between two sizes. This is one of the most common sizing dilemmas — and there's a clear strategy.
The golden rule: size up
When in doubt, choose the larger size. A good tailor can take a garment in by two to three inches at most seams, but letting out is much harder and often impossible — seam allowance is limited and embroidery may not extend into the hidden fabric. A slightly large garment becomes perfect with alterations; a too-small one may be unwearable.
Which measurement matters most?
Size for the most fitted, least alterable area. For a lehenga, that's the bust (the blouse is hardest to alter; the skirt has more room at the waist). For a sharara or gharara, prioritise the hips — the trousers must fit over them, while the kameez can be adjusted. For an anarkali or maxi, the bust again, since they flow freely below. For a shalwar kameez, the bust for the top and the hip for the shalwar.
Size up, size down, or go custom?
Size up if your largest measurement falls into the bigger size, you prefer comfortable ease, you tend to bloat near events, there's any chance of weight gain, you'll wear it for many hours, the piece is heavily embroidered, or you have a good tailor. Size down only if your smallest measurement is in the smaller size and there's a wide alteration margin, you're actively losing weight and have time to alter, you want a snug fit, or the style is designed to be oversized. Go custom if your measurements differ significantly across areas, you're at the very edge of the size range, you've had persistent fit issues before, or it's a bridal piece where fit is crucial.
A few real scenarios
Bust 36", waist 27" (Medium bust, Small waist) — choose Medium, since the bust is fitted and the waist can be taken in. Bust 34", hip 42" (Small bust, Large hip) — choose Large or custom, because the garment must fit over the hips. All measurements at the very top of Small — choose Medium for breathing room. Exactly between Medium and Large — choose Large; a slightly loose blouse looks better than a straining one. Proportions that match no standard size (e.g. bust 32", waist 34", hip 44") — go custom.
Weight fluctuations
If you're trying to lose weight, the conservative approach is to order for your current measurements and alter closer to the event; ordering smaller is a gamble unless you have plenty of time and a backup plan. Be honest with yourself — wedding planning often leads to weight gain rather than loss. If you tend to bloat, think about whether it'll coincide with the event and size up if there's any chance. And if you're pregnant or may become pregnant, see our pregnant wedding guest guide.
Brand differences and the custom option
Sizes vary between brands, so always go by actual measurements rather than the size label, check reviews for “runs small/large,” and ask customer service for a recommendation if you're unsure. At AÏNN London our sizes include a 3–5 inch alteration margin, and if you're between sizes we generally suggest going up. We also offer custom measurements at no extra charge — you provide your exact measurements and the garment is made specifically for your body, which is well worth it for high-value or bridal pieces or proportions that don't match standard sizing.
Size at a glance
| Situation | Recommendation |
|---|---|
| Measurements split between two sizes | Size up; prioritise the fitted areas |
| Right on the line between sizes | Size up for a comfort buffer |
| Proportions very different from standard | Consider custom sizing |
| Expecting weight changes | Order for current size; alter closer to the event |
| Style is flowy or oversized | Can size down (built-in ease) |
| Style is body-conscious | Definitely size up if between sizes |
Frequently asked questions
Should I size up or down for Pakistani clothing?
Size up. A tailor can take a garment in by a few inches easily, but letting out is much harder. Size for your most fitted, least alterable area.
My bust and waist are different sizes — which do I order?
For a lehenga or anarkali, size for the bust and have the waist taken in. For a sharara or gharara, size for the hips. If the gap is large, consider custom sizing.
Should I order smaller if I'm planning to lose weight?
Usually not — order for your current measurements and alter closer to the event. Many people plan to lose weight and don't, so it's safer not to gamble.
When is custom sizing worth it?
When your proportions differ a lot across areas, you're at the edge of the size range, you've had fit issues before, or it's a bridal or special-occasion piece.
Still unsure? Send us your exact measurements and the outfit you're considering for a personal recommendation — WhatsApp +44 7447 196992, email hello@ainnlondon.com, or book a video consultation.
Last updated: June 2026
