While zardozi and gota patti capture attention with dramatic metallic presence, two materials form the subtle foundation of Pakistani fashion: resham (silk thread) and tilla (flat metallic thread). Understanding them helps you appreciate fine embroidery and choose well for different occasions. This is part of our wider guide to Pakistani embroidery.

What is resham embroidery?

Resham — from the Persian reshm (silk) — is embroidery using pure silk threads. Unlike metallic work, it offers soft lustre and beautiful colour saturation. Historically the threads came from silk-producing regions like Bengal and Kashmir and through trade with China; the natural sheen, smooth texture and brilliant dye uptake made silk the material of choice for intricate patterns.

The versatility of resham work

Resham appears in countless forms: floral and paisley motifs (its smooth surface is ideal for detailed botanical patterns), French-knot textures (tiny silk knots that add raised dimension without heaviness), satin-stitch filling (parallel threads creating smooth, lustrous surfaces), and combined with metallic work (resham often accompanies dabka and zardozi, adding colour and organic texture that balances their formality).

When to choose resham

Year-round wear: unlike heavy metallic work best kept for grand events, resham suits varied occasions. Casual-formal events: elegant without overwhelming — ideal for formal dinners and daytime functions. Summer weddings: lightweight resham on flowing fabrics gives embroidered beauty without weight. Everyday elegance: perfect for Eid and family gatherings where full zardozi would feel excessive. For maximum impact at the baraat, explore our bridal collection with zardozi and dabka.

What is tilla embroidery?

Tilla is flat gold or silver metallic thread. Unlike the coiled wire of dabka, tilla lies flat against the fabric, creating smooth, mirror-like surfaces that catch light dramatically. Traditional tilla used real gold or silver wire wrapped around a silk core; today quality tilla uses gold- or silver-plated copper wire, keeping the visual impact while being more accessible.

The Kashmiri connection

Tilla work is particularly associated with Kashmir, where it's often combined with the region's famous chain-stitch (aari) embroidery — intricate patterns outlined and filled with flat golden thread that gleams under any light. This makes tilla especially suited to the rich fabrics and formal occasions of Kashmiri textile heritage: pashmina shawls, velvet garments and elaborate wedding wear.

When to choose tilla

Winter weddings: tilla on velvet creates stunning winter bridal pieces that glow under indoor lighting. Formal evening events: the flat metallic surface catches artificial light beautifully. Statement bridal wear: combined with other techniques it creates show-stopping pieces. The grand baraat: tilla's dramatic presence suits the most formal event — see our baraat guide.

Resham vs tilla: making your choice

Choose resham when you want colourful, softer embroidery without heavy metallic presence, for daytime or casual-formal events, when you prefer lighter, comfortable pieces, and for year-round versatility. Choose tilla when you want maximum metallic drama, for formal evening or grand celebrations, for dramatic light-catching in photos, for winter weddings, and for statement bridal impact.

Combining resham and tilla

The most sophisticated embroidery often combines both: resham provides colour, organic pattern and softer texture, while tilla adds metallic highlights, outlines and dramatic accents — together creating dimensional pieces with varied visual interest. This layered approach appears throughout our collection.

Caring for these embroidery types

Resham: silk thread is relatively durable but can fade in direct sunlight, so store in dark spaces, dry clean with a silk-embroidery specialist, and avoid harsh chemicals. Tilla: flat metallic thread can tarnish over time, so store in low humidity with silica gel, avoid folds that crease the metallic surface, and use professional cleaning only. Our care guide has more.

Identifying quality

Resham: genuine silk has a natural sheen synthetics can't replicate, holds colour vibrantly without fading, and runs smooth and consistent without lumps. Tilla: good tilla lies flat and smooth for a mirror-like surface, its metallic coating is even and doesn't flake or peel, and the silk core gives flexibility without cracking.

Explore Pakistani fashion at AÏNN London

Our pieces incorporate quality resham and tilla alongside zardozi and dabka, creating the layered embroidery that defines Pakistani formal wear. Each outfit is made to your measurements with a 3–5 inch alteration margin, in your exact shade from a 900+ hand-dyed colour library, with a video before dispatch. Browse the bridal, mehndi and party wear collections; duties are included, with free delivery on orders over £500. Contact us with any questions.

Frequently asked questions

What is the difference between resham and tilla?

Resham is silk-thread embroidery — soft, colourful and lightweight — while tilla is flat gold or silver metallic thread that lies smooth against the fabric for a mirror-like shine. Resham suits everyday and summer wear; tilla suits formal and winter occasions.

When should I wear resham?

For year-round, daytime and casual-formal events, summer weddings and occasions like Eid where heavy metallic work would feel excessive.

When should I wear tilla?

For formal evening events, winter weddings, statement bridal wear and the grand baraat, where its dramatic, light-catching metallic surface has maximum impact.

How do I care for resham and tilla?

Keep resham out of direct sunlight and dry clean it with a silk specialist; store tilla in low humidity, avoid creasing it, and have it professionally cleaned only. Never wash either at home.

Last updated: June 2026