Pakistani Fashion Glossary: Complete A-Z Guide
The definitive reference for Pakistani clothing terms, embroidery techniques, and fashion vocabulary
Whether you're shopping for Pakistani clothing, attending a South Asian wedding, or simply curious about the terminology, this comprehensive glossary covers every term you need to know.
A
Aari Work
What is Aari work? Aari (also spelled Ari) is an embroidery technique using a hooked needle called an aari. Originating in Kashmir, it creates intricate chain-stitch patterns and is particularly associated with Kashmiri embroidery. Aari work allows for detailed floral and paisley designs and is commonly used on shawls, suits, and bridal wear.
Ajrak
What is Ajrak? A traditional block-printed textile from Sindh, Pakistan, featuring geometric patterns in deep blue and red. Ajrak has cultural significance in Sindhi heritage and is often given as a mark of respect. While traditional for everyday wear, modern designers incorporate ajrak patterns into contemporary fashion.
Anarkali
What is an Anarkali? A long, flowing dress style named after the legendary Mughal court dancer Anarkali. Characterized by a fitted bodice and dramatically flared skirt that falls to floor length. Anarkalis are popular for formal events and are particularly flattering for pear-shaped body types as the flare hides the hip area while emphasizing the bust and waist.
Angrakha
What is an Angrakha? A wrap-style garment that crosses over the chest and ties at the side. Historically worn by both men and women in Mughal courts, the angrakha style creates a flattering diagonal line across the body. Modern angrakha tops and kurtas are popular for their adjustable fit and elegant draping.
B
Badla
What is Badla work? A metallic embroidery technique using flattened metal wire (usually silver or gold-toned) wrapped around a thread core. Badla creates subtle shimmer and is often combined with other embroidery techniques. Also known as "metallic thread work," it's less heavy than zardozi but adds elegant shine.
Baraat
What is a Baraat? The groom's wedding procession and the main wedding ceremony event in Pakistani/South Asian weddings. The baraat is typically the most formal event, with the bride wearing her primary bridal outfit (traditionally red) and guests in their most elaborate formal wear.
Banarasi
What is Banarasi fabric? A luxurious silk fabric originally from Varanasi (Banaras), India, known for intricate gold and silver brocade work woven directly into the fabric. Banarasi silk is highly prized for bridal wear and special occasions. Authentic Banarasi features motifs inspired by Mughal designs including florals and paisleys.
Bridal Jora
What is a Bridal Jora? "Jora" means "set" or "pair" in Urdu. A bridal jora is a complete bridal outfit set, typically including the top (blouse/kameez), bottom (lehenga/sharara/gharara), and dupatta. The term is used interchangeably with "bridal outfit" or "bridal dress."
C
Chikan/Chikankari
What is Chikankari? A delicate white-on-white embroidery technique originating from Lucknow, India. Chikankari features subtle floral patterns created with white thread on white fabric (usually cotton or muslin). While traditionally monochromatic, modern chikankari incorporates colored threads and is popular for summer wear and elegant nikah outfits.
Choli
What is a Choli? The fitted blouse worn with a lehenga. A choli typically has a cropped length (ending above or at the natural waist) and can feature various necklines, sleeve lengths, and back designs. The choli is often the most fitted and structured piece of a lehenga outfit.
Churidar
What are Churidars? Tight-fitting trousers that gather in folds ("churis" means bangles) around the ankles. Churidars are cut longer than the leg length, creating the signature bunched effect at the bottom. Often worn with longer kameez or kurta tops.
Cutwork
What is Cutwork embroidery? A technique where parts of the base fabric are cut away and the edges are finished with embroidery stitches, creating a lace-like effect. Cutwork borders are common on dupattas and dress hems, adding delicate detail without heavy embellishment.
D
Dabka
What is Dabka work? A type of embroidery using coiled metallic wire (like a tiny spring) that's couched onto fabric to create patterns. Dabka work creates dimensional, textured embroidery and is a key component of traditional Pakistani bridal wear. When combined with other techniques like zardozi, it creates the rich, heavy embroidery associated with bridal lehengas.
Dholki
What is a Dholki? Pre-wedding musical celebrations featuring the dholki (a traditional drum). Dholki events are informal gatherings where family and friends sing traditional wedding songs. Dress code is typically casual to semi-formal, colorful, and festive.
Dupatta
What is a Dupatta? A long scarf or shawl that's an essential part of South Asian women's clothing. Dupattas are draped over the head, shoulders, or across the body and come in various fabrics from sheer organza to heavy embroidered silk. A matching dupatta typically completes any Pakistani outfit.
E
Embroidery (Pakistani)
What types of embroidery are used in Pakistani clothing? Pakistani fashion features numerous embroidery techniques including: zardozi (gold metallic), dabka (coiled wire), gota patti (gold ribbon), chikankari (white thread), aari (chain stitch), phulkari (Punjabi floral), mirror work (shisha), and resham (silk thread). Each technique has distinct characteristics and cultural origins.
F
Farshi
What is a Farshi? "Farshi" means "floor-length" in Urdu. A farshi lehenga or farshi pajama has extra length that trails slightly on the floor, creating a dramatic, regal effect. Farshi styles are popular for bridal wear and formal occasions where maximum impact is desired.
Formal Wear
What is Pakistani formal wear? Heavily embellished clothing appropriate for weddings and special celebrations. Pakistani formal wear typically features extensive embroidery, luxurious fabrics (silk, velvet, organza), and rich colors. It's distinct from "luxury pret" (less embellished) and "casual wear."
G
Gharara
What is a Gharara? A traditional trouser style that's fitted from the waist to the knee, then flares dramatically into wide, gathered panels. The distinctive knee-length ruching and dramatic flare distinguish gharara from sharara (which flares from the hip). Gharara originates from Lucknow and has Mughal heritage.
Gota Patti
What is Gota Patti? An embroidery technique using gold or silver ribbon (gota) appliquéd onto fabric in patterns. Originating from Rajasthan, gota patti creates geometric and floral designs and is particularly associated with mehndi outfits. The ribbon catches light beautifully and creates a festive, celebratory look.
H
Haath Phool
What is Haath Phool? Hand jewelry that adorns the back of the hand, connecting a ring to a bracelet with decorative chains. Literally meaning "hand flower," haath phool is traditional bridal jewelry that adds elegance to the hands, especially visible during the wedding ceremony.
Heavy Formal
What is "heavy formal" in Pakistani fashion? The most embellished category of Pakistani clothing, featuring extensive embroidery coverage (often 60-100% of the fabric), premium materials, and maximum glamour. Heavy formal is appropriate for the bride, close family, and the most important wedding events like the baraat.
J
Jamawar
What is Jamawar fabric? A richly patterned fabric with woven (not printed) designs, traditionally from Kashmir. Jamawar features intricate paisley and floral patterns woven into the fabric itself. Authentic jamawar is expensive and time-consuming to produce. Modern jamawar-style fabrics may be machine-woven or printed.
Jhoomar
What is a Jhoomar? A decorative headpiece worn on the side of the head, typically over the left ear. Jhoomar is traditional bridal jewelry in Pakistani weddings, adding sparkle and glamour to the bridal look. It's usually worn alongside a maang tikka.
Jora
What does Jora mean? "Jora" means "set" or "pair" in Urdu/Punjabi. In fashion context, a jora refers to a complete outfit set—typically a top, bottom, and dupatta sold together. A "bridal jora" is a complete bridal outfit.
K
Kameez
What is a Kameez? A tunic or long shirt that's the top component of the "shalwar kameez" outfit. Kameez lengths vary from hip-length to below the knee, and styles range from simple everyday wear to heavily embellished formal pieces. The term comes from the Arabic word for "shirt."
Kamdani
What is Kamdani work? A technique similar to badla that uses thin metallic strips or flattened wire to create delicate, shimmering embroidery. Kamdani work is lighter than zardozi and creates subtle elegance rather than heavy ornamentation.
Kundan
What is Kundan? A traditional jewelry-making technique where gemstones are set in gold foil. In embroidery, kundan work involves attaching small stone/crystal embellishments to fabric, creating jewel-like decoration. Kundan stones on bridal wear add sparkle and dimension.
L
Lehenga / Lengha
What is a Lehenga? A long, full skirt worn with a fitted blouse (choli) and dupatta. The lehenga (also spelled lengha) is the quintessential Pakistani and Indian bridal garment. Styles range from A-line to circular to mermaid/fishtail. Bridal lehengas typically feature heavy embroidery and rich fabrics.
Luxury Pret
What is Luxury Pret? "Pret" means ready-to-wear. Luxury pret refers to high-quality ready-made clothing that's more refined than casual wear but less embellished than heavy formal. Luxury pret is appropriate for smaller gatherings, casual parties, and everyday occasions requiring elevated dressing.
M
Maang Tikka
What is a Maang Tikka? A forehead ornament that hangs from the center hair parting. The tikka sits on the forehead between the eyebrows and is essential bridal jewelry. Designs range from simple single drops to elaborate multi-strand pieces.
Maxi
What is a Pakistani Maxi? A long, floor-length dress or gown, often with heavy embroidery on the bodice and lighter work below. Pakistani maxis are popular for formal events as a one-piece alternative to the multi-piece lehenga. They're easier to wear and often more comfortable for dancing.
Mehndi
What is Mehndi? Two meanings: 1) Henna paste used for temporary body art, applied in intricate patterns to hands and feet. 2) The pre-wedding celebration where the bride (and often female guests) have mehndi applied. Mehndi events are colorful, festive, and feature lots of music and dancing.
Mirror Work / Shisha
What is Mirror Work? An embroidery technique that incorporates small mirrors (shisha) into the fabric, secured with decorative stitching. Mirror work originates from Rajasthan and Sindh and creates eye-catching sparkle. It's associated with folk traditions and is popular for mehndi outfits.
Mukesh
What is Mukesh work? A Lucknowi embroidery technique that combines metallic thread work with chikankari. Mukesh adds subtle sparkle to the delicate white embroidery, creating an elegant combination of techniques.
N
Nath
What is a Nath? A nose ring, traditionally worn by brides. Pakistani bridal naths can be simple studs or elaborate pieces with chains connecting to the hair or ear. Wearing a nath is optional and varies by regional and family tradition.
Nikah
What is a Nikah? The Islamic marriage ceremony. The nikah can be a small, intimate religious ceremony or a larger formal event. Brides often wear white, ivory, or pastel colors for the nikah (as opposed to red for the baraat), though this varies by family preference.
Net
What is Net fabric? A sheer, mesh fabric commonly used for dupattas, sleeves, and overlays in Pakistani formal wear. Net can be plain or embroidered and adds lightness and ethereal quality to outfits. Embroidered net dupattas are a staple of Pakistani wedding fashion.
O
Organza
What is Organza? A thin, sheer fabric with a slight stiffness that holds shape beautifully. Organza is popular for formal wear, especially for voluminous dupattas and overlay layers. It catches light elegantly and is a favorite for bridal and formal garments.
P
Pajama
What are Pakistani Pajamas? Loose-fitting trousers worn as the bottom half of traditional outfits. Different from Western sleepwear, Pakistani pajamas are everyday clothing. Variants include straight-cut, tulip, and cigarette styles.
Peplum
What is a Peplum style? A fitted top with a flared ruffle or "skirt" attached at the waist, creating an hourglass silhouette. Peplum blouses are popular with lehengas and shararas, adding dimension and flattering the waist.
Phulkari
What is Phulkari? Literally "flower work," phulkari is a traditional Punjabi embroidery technique featuring bright, geometric floral patterns created with silk thread on cotton fabric. Authentic phulkari uses long satin stitches in vibrant colors (orange, pink, yellow). It's associated with Punjabi heritage and celebrations.
R
Resham
What is Resham work? Embroidery using silk thread (resham means silk). Resham work creates smooth, lustrous designs and is often combined with zardozi for added dimension. The silk threads add color and softness to embroidered pieces.
Rukhsati
What is Rukhsati? The emotional "send-off" moment when the bride leaves her family home with the groom after the wedding ceremony. The rukhsati is a significant cultural moment, often featuring traditional songs and prayers.
S
Shalwar
What is a Shalwar? Traditional loose-fitting trousers that are wide at the top and narrow at the ankle. Shalwar, worn with a kameez (shalwar kameez), is everyday attire across Pakistan. The comfortable fit suits the climate and allows ease of movement.
Sharara
What is a Sharara? Wide-legged trousers that flare from the hip or waist (unlike gharara, which flares from the knee). Shararas create a dramatic silhouette and are popular for weddings and formal events. They're particularly flattering and comfortable for dancing.
Sequin Work
What is Sequin work? Embellishment using small, flat, shiny discs (sequins) attached to fabric. Sequins add sparkle and movement to garments. In Pakistani fashion, sequin work often complements other embroidery techniques rather than appearing alone.
Silk
What types of silk are used in Pakistani clothing? Common silks include: raw silk (matte, textured), pure silk (smooth, lustrous), jamawar silk (patterned), and banarasi silk (brocade). Silk is prized for formal wear due to its drape, sheen, and ability to hold embroidery.
Sozni
What is Sozni work? A fine Kashmiri embroidery technique using tiny needle stitches to create intricate patterns, often on shawls. Sozni work is time-intensive and highly detailed, representing some of Kashmir's finest craftsmanship.
T
Tilla
What is Tilla work? Embroidery using gold or silver metallic thread, particularly associated with Kashmiri tradition. Tilla work on pherans (traditional Kashmiri robes) and formal wear creates rich, ornate designs. "Tilla" specifically refers to the metallic thread itself.
Tissue
What is Tissue fabric? A sheer, lightweight fabric with metallic threads woven in, creating subtle shimmer. Tissue is popular for dupattas and overlays, adding luminosity without weight. It photographs beautifully and is a favorite for bridal wear.
Tulip Pants
What are Tulip pants? A trouser style with overlapping front panels that create a tulip-like shape at the hem. Tulip pants add feminine detail to outfits and are popular with both casual and formal wear.
W
Walima
What is a Walima? The reception hosted by the groom's family after the wedding. Walima is typically held the day after the baraat and is often a large, celebratory event. Dress code is formal, though traditionally slightly less heavy than baraat attire.
Z
Zardozi
What is Zardozi? The most prestigious form of Pakistani/Indian embroidery, using gold and silver metallic threads, beads, sequins, and stones to create elaborate raised designs. Zardozi originated in Persia and flourished under Mughal patronage. It's the hallmark of luxury bridal wear, requiring hundreds to thousands of hours for heavily embroidered pieces.
Zari
What is Zari? Metallic thread (gold or silver toned) used in weaving and embroidery. Zari can be pure metal thread or metallic-coated synthetic. "Zari work" is a general term for any embroidery using metallic thread, while "zardozi" refers specifically to the raised, dimensional technique.
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