In Pakistani embroidery, if zardozi is the dramatic lead, chikankari is the sophisticated one — equally important and impossibly elegant. The name derives from the Persian chikin (beautifully embroidered fabric), and the work grows more impressive the closer you look: intricate floral patterns, delicate texture and subtle shadow work. This is part of our wider guide to Pakistani embroidery.

The royal history of chikankari

Chikankari's story is inseparable from Lucknow's. Legend credits its introduction to Empress Nur Jahan in the 17th century, who brought Persian artisans to create it for the Mughal court. It flourished under royal patronage, and Lucknow remains its undisputed centre — the craft received Geographical Indication (GI) status in 2008. Remarkably, around 90% of chikankari artisans are women working from home, making it one of the region's largest cottage industries supporting female employment.

Understanding the 32 stitches

True chikankari encompasses 32 distinct stitches. The most important to know are tepchi (a running stitch for outlines, in almost every piece), murri (tiny rice-shaped knots for textured filling — one of the oldest, most skilled stitches, which commands premium prices), phanda (small dot-like stitches for delicate detail), jaali (intricate openwork created without piercing the fabric — rare and valuable), and bakhiya (shadow work embroidered from the reverse, adding subtle depth on the front).

Why chikankari is perfect for the nikah

Elegant restraint: the nikah calls for sophisticated beauty rather than overwhelming opulence, which chikankari provides exactly. White and ivory: its traditional white-on-white aesthetic aligns with nikah colour traditions. Religious appropriateness: its modest elegance suits the ceremony's significance. Comfortable wear: it's lightweight for a ceremony involving sitting, standing and moving. Photographic beauty: the texture and shadow work catch light beautifully on camera. See our nikah outfit guide.

Modern chikankari: beyond white

While traditional chikankari is white thread on white fabric, contemporary pieces may add coloured thread (pastels, soft pinks, subtle golds) for dimension, combined techniques such as chikankari with mukesh shimmer for pieces that work for both nikah and reception, and subtle sequin embellishment for a little sparkle without overwhelming the delicate base.

When to wear chikankari

Nikah: the quintessential chikankari moment — an ivory outfit with subtle embellishment. Walima: a softer look than the baraat, especially pastel chikankari with mukesh. Summer weddings: its lightweight nature suits warm weather. Daytime events: it looks stunning without dramatic lighting. Eid: white or pastel chikankari offers festive elegance. For the mehndi, choose brighter gota patti options instead.

Identifying quality chikankari

Check the back: handmade chikankari shows neat, distinct stitches on the reverse, whereas machine work creates loops and continuous threads. Examine the stitches: each type should be distinct and precise — look for texture variation between tepchi, murri and phanda. Feel the fabric: traditional chikankari uses soft, fine cotton or georgette that drapes beautifully. Look for jaali: genuine openwork is very hard to machine-replicate, so its presence usually signals real handwork.

Caring for chikankari

For cotton chikankari, gentle hand washing in cold water is acceptable (always test a small area first); georgette and silk chikankari should be professionally dry cleaned. Never wring or twist — gently squeeze out excess water and dry flat or hang carefully. Iron on the reverse while slightly damp, and store flat in acid-free tissue away from direct sunlight. Our care guide has more.

Shop elegant pieces at AÏNN London

Our specialty is the luxurious zardozi and dabka work that defines Pakistani bridal tradition, and many pieces in our nikah and bridal collections carry the delicate, understated aesthetic that nikah ceremonies call for. Each outfit is made to your measurements with a 3–5 inch alteration margin, in your exact shade from a 900+ hand-dyed colour library, with a video before dispatch. Browse in-stock pieces for faster delivery, or contact our team for advice.

Frequently asked questions

What is chikankari?

Chikankari is the delicate white-on-white shadow embroidery of Lucknow, worked in up to 32 distinct stitches such as tepchi, murri, phanda, jaali and bakhiya. It's lightweight, refined and understated.

Why is chikankari good for a nikah?

Its elegant restraint, traditional white and ivory palette, modesty, lightweight comfort and photogenic texture all suit the religious nikah ceremony, which calls for sophisticated beauty rather than heavy sparkle.

Is chikankari always white?

Traditionally yes — white thread on white fabric — but modern chikankari may use soft coloured threads or pair with mukesh shimmer and subtle sequins for a little more glamour.

How can I tell if chikankari is handmade?

Check the reverse for neat, distinct stitches (machine work loops continuously), look for precise variation between stitch types, feel for soft fine cotton or georgette, and look for genuine jaali openwork, which is very hard to replicate by machine.

Last updated: June 2026