You can have the most beautiful lehenga in the world, but if the blouse doesn't fit properly, the whole outfit suffers. The blouse is often the trickiest piece to get right—it needs to fit snugly while still allowing you to breathe, move, and raise your arms.

This guide covers every common blouse fitting problem and how to solve it.

How a Blouse Should Fit

Before diving into problems, let's establish what "good fit" actually means:

• Bust: Smooth across the front with no pulling, gaping, or horizontal wrinkles. You should be able to breathe normally and take a deep breath without feeling constricted.
• Shoulders: Seams sit exactly where your shoulder meets your arm. Not dropping onto your upper arm, not pulling toward your neck.
• Armholes: Comfortable when arms are at your sides and when raised. No digging, no gaping, no restricted movement.
• Back: Lies flat with no excess fabric bunching. Zip or hooks close comfortably without strain.
• Length: Ends at your desired point (crop, waist, or extended) without riding up when you move.

Problem: Blouse Too Tight in the Bust

Symptoms

• Horizontal pulling lines across the bust
• Buttons or hooks straining
• Difficulty breathing or sitting
• Fabric gaps between closures

Causes

• Measured bust too tight or while exhaling
• Different bra than measurement was taken in
• Weight/size change since measuring
• No ease allowance built into garment

Solutions

If there's seam allowance: A tailor can let out the side seams, typically 1-2 inches total. Check if the garment has alteration margin built in (AÏNN London includes 3-5 inches).

If heavily embroidered: Side panels may be difficult to alter without damaging work. An experienced South Asian tailor can often add matching fabric panels under the arms.

Quick fix for event: Leave the lowest hook undone if it won't be visible under your lengha waistband. Consider shapewear that smooths rather than compresses.

Prevention

Add 1-2 inches to your actual bust measurement when ordering. This "ease" is essential for a comfortable fit. Measure in the bra you'll actually wear.

Problem: Blouse Too Loose

Symptoms

• Fabric bunching or wrinkling
• Blouse shifting around throughout the day
• Visible gaps at neckline or armholes
• Unflattering silhouette in photos

Solutions

Side seams: Can be taken in by a tailor—this is usually straightforward unless the sides are heavily embroidered.

Darts: Adding or adjusting darts at bust and waist creates shape without altering the main seams.

Back adjustment: The centre back seam or zip seam can be taken in for a better fit.

Quick fix for event: Strategic safety pins at the back (hidden by dupatta) can temporarily improve fit.

Problem: Armholes Digging In

Symptoms

• Pain or discomfort when wearing
• Red marks on skin after removing
• Restricted arm movement
• Difficulty raising arms for photos or dancing

Causes

• Armhole cut too small for your body
• Armhole positioned too high
• Upper arm measurement not considered

Solutions

Armhole enlargement: A skilled tailor can carefully cut the armhole slightly larger. This requires matching any border or piping work.

Sleeve adjustment: Sometimes the sleeve itself is too tight at the cap, even if the armhole is fine. The sleeve cap can be reshaped.

Important: Armhole alterations are among the most complex. Find a tailor experienced with formal South Asian wear.

Prevention

When ordering custom, provide your upper arm/bicep measurement. If you have fuller arms, mention this specifically.

Problem: Armholes Gaping

Symptoms

• Visible undergarments or bra through armhole
• Armhole fabric standing away from body
• Particularly problematic for modesty

Solutions

Armhole tightening: Tailor can take in the armhole seam or add a small dart.

Sleeve addition: If you ordered sleeveless and armholes gape, adding flutter sleeves or cap sleeves can cover the issue entirely.

Quick fix: Fashion tape from armhole edge to bra can help keep things in place. Wear a coordinating bralette or crop top underneath if colour matches.

Problem: Neckline Issues

Neckline Too Low (Showing More Than Intended)

Quick fix: Pin a modesty panel or matching net fabric behind the neckline. Many brides add a net panel from the start for this reason.

Permanent fix: Tailor can raise the neckline by adding a collar band or adjusting the shoulder seams.

Prevention: When ordering, specify your desired neckline depth or request "modest neckline."

Neckline Gaping at Centre

Cause: Usually happens when bust is smaller than the blouse was cut for, or shoulders are narrower.

Fix: Tailor can add a dart or take in the centre front. A small hook at the centre can also pull it closed.

Neckline Pulling/Choking

Cause: Neckline cut too small for your neck/shoulder proportions.

Fix: Neckline can be carefully cut larger. This may affect any neckline embroidery, so discuss with tailor first.

Problem: Back Doesn't Close Properly

Zip Won't Close

Cause: Blouse too small through back or bust.

Solution: If there's seam allowance, sides can be let out. If not, a matching panel can sometimes be added where the zip currently is, with a new zip or hook closure.

Hooks Straining

Solution: Similar to above. Additionally, hooks can be replaced with stronger ones or additional hooks added to distribute strain.

Back Gaping When Closed

Cause: Back is too big, or bust is much larger than back (common with larger cup sizes).

Solution: Take in the centre back seam or add darts on either side of the spine. The back can also be reshaped through the zip seam.

Problem: Blouse Length Wrong

Too Short (Showing Midriff Unintentionally)

If hem allowance exists: Can be let down easily.

If no allowance: A matching fabric band or peplum can be added at the bottom.

Styling workaround: High-waisted lengha that overlaps the blouse hem. Or embrace the look—crop blouses are traditional and beautiful.

Too Long (Bunching Into Lengha)

Solution: Hemming is straightforward if there's no border. If there's an embroidered border at the hem, the blouse may need to be shortened from the shoulder/bodice area instead—a more complex alteration.

Problem: Sleeves Don't Fit

Too Tight

Solution: If there's seam allowance, sleeves can be let out. If not, a slit can be added at the inner arm and finished decoratively.

Dramatic solution: Replace sleeves entirely with a different style (flutter, bell, or sheer).

Too Long

Solution: Simple shortening, though border work must be considered. Border can often be removed and reattached.

Too Short

Solution: If cuff/border exists, it may be possible to add length before the border. Otherwise, a fabric extension or lace trim can be added.

Bra Compatibility

This is an often-overlooked aspect of blouse fit:

For Low-Back Blouses

Regular bras will show. Options include: low-back bras, stick-on bras, bras with clear/convertible straps, or going braless with built-in support.

For Backless Blouses

Stick-on bras, boob tape, or built-in cups/padding. Discuss with your blouse maker if you need padding added.

For Sheer Sleeves

Strapless bra or one with clear straps. Avoid dark bras under light sheer fabric.

Pro Tip

Buy your bra before taking measurements for your blouse, and wear it during measuring. The same bra should be worn during fittings and on the day.

What a Tailor Can Fix (and What They Can't)

Easy Alterations

• Taking in side seams
• Hemming length
• Taking in back seam
• Adding darts
• Adjusting sleeve length

Moderate Alterations

• Enlarging armholes (if done carefully)
• Raising neckline
• Reshaping sleeves
• Let out seams (if allowance exists)

Difficult/Impossible Alterations

• Changing shoulder width significantly
• Major size changes (more than 2 sizes)
• Altering heavily embroidered areas
• Lengthening when no hem allowance exists

Prevention: Measurements That Matter for Blouses

When ordering, ensure these measurements are accurate:

1. Bust — With appropriate bra, tape level, breathing normally
2. Upper bust — Above the bust, helps determine cup accommodation
3. Shoulder width — Critical for proper seam placement
4. Arm circumference — Especially if you have fuller upper arms
5. Blouse length — From shoulder to desired end point
6. Arm length — For proper sleeve fit

Additionally, communicate: any fit preferences (snug vs. comfortable ease), modesty requirements, planned bra style, and any known fit issues from past experiences.

Final Thoughts

A perfectly fitting blouse is worth the effort. If buying ready-made, budget for potential alterations. If ordering custom, provide detailed measurements and don't hesitate to over-communicate your preferences.

Most importantly: try your blouse on as soon as it arrives and address any issues immediately. Last-minute alterations are stressful for everyone.

Need help with measurements? View our size chart and video guide or book a consultation.