The Complete Guide to Silk: The Fabric of Royalty in Pakistani Fashion
For over 5,000 years, silk has been synonymous with luxury, status, and timeless elegance. In South Asian fashion, silk holds a place of honour—reserved for weddings, celebrations, and moments that matter. This guide explores everything you need to know about silk in Pakistani fashion, from the different types to care instructions that will help your silk pieces last for generations.
What Is Silk?
Silk is a natural protein fibre produced by silkworms (primarily Bombyx mori) as they create their cocoons. It takes approximately 2,500 silkworms to produce just one pound of raw silk, which partially explains silk's historic status as a luxury material.
The silk trade shaped ancient civilisations—the legendary Silk Road connected East and West for centuries, with silk being the most prized commodity. In the subcontinent, silk weaving traditions date back millennia, with cities like Varanasi, Dhaka, and Multan becoming famous for their distinctive silk weaves.
Key Characteristics of Silk
- Natural lustre: A unique sheen that synthetic fabrics struggle to replicate
- Incredible softness: Smooth against the skin
- Temperature regulating: Cool in summer, warm in winter
- Strong for its weight: One of the strongest natural fibres
- Excellent dye absorption: Takes colour beautifully and richly
- Natural protein fibre: Hypoallergenic and gentle on skin
Types of Silk Used in Pakistani Fashion
1. Pure Silk (Mulberry Silk)
The most common type of silk, produced by domesticated silkworms fed exclusively on mulberry leaves. It has the finest, most uniform fibres and the smoothest feel.
Appearance: High lustre, smooth, even texture
Best for: High-end bridal wear, luxury kurtas, formal occasions
Price point: Premium
2. Raw Silk (Also called Silk Noil)
Made from shorter silk fibres that remain after combing. It has a more textured, slightly nubby appearance with a matte finish rather than high sheen.
Appearance: Textured surface, matte finish, natural irregularities
Best for: Structured garments, formal wear, winter-weight outfits
Price point: Mid-range to premium
See our detailed raw silk & tussar guide for more information.
3. Tussar Silk (Tussah/Kosa Silk)
Produced by wild silkworms that feed on oak and other leaves. It has a distinctive gold colour and unique texture that can't be replicated.
Appearance: Natural gold/beige colour, textured, rustic elegance
Best for: Festive wear, sarees, statement pieces
Price point: Mid-range to premium
See our detailed raw silk & tussar guide for more information.
4. Banarasi Silk
Silk fabric woven in Varanasi (Banaras), India, known for gold and silver brocade work and elaborate designs. While technically from India, Banarasi silks are beloved in Pakistani fashion.
Appearance: Rich, heavily patterned with zari work, ornate
Best for: Bridal wear, formal occasions, heirloom pieces
Price point: Premium to luxury
5. Jamawar Silk
Originally from Kashmir, this is silk with intricate woven patterns inspired by Persian and Mughal designs. The patterns are woven into the fabric, not printed.
Appearance: Complex woven patterns, paisley motifs, rich colours
Best for: Formal wear, shawls, bridal accents
Price point: Premium to luxury
6. Dupion Silk (Dupioni)
Made from threads of two silkworms that spun their cocoons together, creating irregular slubs in the fabric. This "imperfection" is prized for its visual interest.
Appearance: Crisp texture, visible slubs, subtle sheen
Best for: Structured garments, formal wear, blouses
Price point: Mid-range
7. Silk Georgette
A sheer, lightweight silk with a crinkled texture. It combines silk's lustre with georgette's flowing drape.
Appearance: Semi-sheer, flowing, subtle texture
Best for: Dupattas, layered looks, flowing silhouettes
Price point: Mid-range to premium
8. Silk Chiffon
Extremely lightweight and sheer silk with a soft, smooth finish. The most delicate of the silk varieties.
Appearance: Very sheer, soft, elegant drape
Best for: Dupattas, overlays, evening wear
Price point: Mid-range to premium
9. Crepe de Chine
Silk with a slightly pebbled texture that doesn't cling to the body. Known for its elegant drape and versatility.
Appearance: Matte lustre, fluid drape, subtle texture
Best for: Elegant separates, kurtas, trousers
Price point: Mid-range to premium
10. Charmeuse Silk
Silk woven in a satin weave, giving it a lustrous front and matte back. Very smooth and drapey.
Appearance: High shine, satin-like finish, fluid
Best for: Linings, lingerie-inspired styles, evening wear
Price point: Mid-range to premium
Pros and Cons of Silk
✅ Advantages of Silk
1. Unmatched Luxury Feel
Nothing quite matches the sensation of silk against the skin. It's smooth, soft, and has a sensory quality that elevates any occasion.
2. Natural Temperature Regulation
Silk's protein structure allows it to breathe in summer while providing insulation in winter. This makes silk surprisingly versatile across seasons.
3. Hypoallergenic
As a natural protein fibre, silk is gentle on sensitive skin and resistant to dust mites and mould—a consideration for those with allergies.
4. Superior Colour Depth
Silk absorbs dyes beautifully, resulting in richer, deeper colours than most other fabrics. Jewel tones on silk are particularly stunning.
5. Strength and Durability
Despite its delicate appearance, silk is one of the strongest natural fibres. With proper care, silk garments can last for generations.
6. Natural Lustre
The triangular prism-like structure of silk fibres refracts light, creating the fabric's signature subtle glow that looks different from synthetic shine.
7. Takes Embroidery Beautifully
The strength and smooth surface of silk make it an ideal canvas for intricate embroidery work.
8. Sustainable (When Responsibly Sourced)
As a natural, biodegradable fibre, silk has a lower environmental impact than petroleum-based synthetics when sustainably produced.
❌ Disadvantages of Silk
1. Higher Price Point
Genuine silk costs significantly more than synthetic alternatives. The labour-intensive production process justifies this, but budget remains a consideration.
2. Requires Careful Handling
Silk is more delicate than many fabrics—it can water-spot, stain easily, and requires special cleaning methods.
3. Wrinkles
Pure silk wrinkles, though the way it wrinkles (soft, flowing creases rather than harsh lines) is generally less obtrusive than synthetic wrinkles.
4. Sensitive to Sunlight
Prolonged UV exposure can fade and weaken silk fibres. Storage and wear considerations apply.
5. Water Marks
Water can leave visible marks on silk, making rain and spills problematic.
6. Vulnerable to Insects
As a protein fibre, silk can be damaged by moths and carpet beetles. Proper storage is essential.
7. Can Be Challenging to Sew
Silk's smooth surface makes it slippery, and different silk types require different handling techniques. Alterations should be done by experienced professionals.
Best Uses for Silk in Pakistani Fashion
🌟 Where Silk Excels
Bridal Lehengas
Silk bridal lehengas are investment pieces that can become family heirlooms. The fabric's ability to hold heavy embroidery while maintaining beautiful drape makes it ideal.
Formal Kurta Sets
A silk kurta set strikes the perfect balance between comfort and formality for weddings, Eid, and special occasions.
Dupattas
Silk dupattas drape beautifully and add instant elegance. They're versatile investments that work with multiple outfits.
Gharara and Sharara
The flowing, flared silhouettes of ghararas and shararas are perfectly complemented by silk's natural drape.
Sarees (Cross-Border Appeal)
While more associated with Indian fashion, silk sarees are worn at Pakistani weddings and formal events, particularly Banarasi silks.
Winter Formal Wear
Silk's temperature-regulating properties make it excellent for winter occasions—warm enough for outdoor events while not overheating indoors.
Wedding Events Best Suited for Silk
- Baraat: The main wedding day deserves the luxury of silk
- Nikah: Classic elegance perfect for the ceremony
- Walima: Reception glamour with silk's beautiful drape
- Eid: Silk is traditional for Eid celebrations
- Engagement: Sets the tone for wedding celebrations to come
What to Avoid with Silk
❌ Avoid Water Contact When Possible
Water can leave marks on silk. If wearing silk, have a plan for rain, and keep drinks at a safe distance.
❌ Never Use Harsh Detergents
Regular detergents, bleach, and stain removers can damage silk fibres and strip natural lustre. Use only silk-specific or pH-neutral products.
❌ Don't Rub Stains
If something spills on silk, blot gently—never rub. Rubbing can damage fibres and spread the stain.
❌ Avoid Direct Sunlight
UV rays fade and weaken silk. Don't hang silk garments in sunny windows, and be mindful during long outdoor events.
❌ Skip the Tumble Dryer
Heat and tumbling action can shrink and damage silk. Air dry only.
❌ Don't Iron at High Heat
High temperatures can scorch silk, leaving permanent marks. Use the silk setting on your iron or steam instead.
❌ Avoid Deodorant Contact
Antiperspirant and deodorant can stain silk permanently. Apply deodorant well before dressing and ensure it's completely dry.
❌ Don't Store in Plastic
Plastic traps moisture and prevents silk from breathing, leading to yellowing and potential mildew. Use breathable cotton bags.
❌ Avoid Wearing on Rough Surfaces
Rough wooden chairs, wicker furniture, and textured surfaces can snag silk fibres. Be mindful of seating at events.
How to Clean and Care for Silk
🧹 Regular Maintenance
After Each Wear:
- Air out the garment for several hours before storing
- Check for any stains or spots and address immediately
- Brush gently with a soft garment brush to remove dust
- Store properly (see below)
🧼 Cleaning Methods
Option 1: Professional Dry Cleaning (Recommended for Most)
The safest option for embroidered, embellished, or expensive silk pieces. Choose a dry cleaner experienced with silk and specify the fabric type.
Option 2: Gentle Hand Washing (Plain Silk Only)
For simple, unembellished silk pieces:
- Test first: Apply a drop of water to an inconspicuous area to check for colour bleeding
- Use cold water: Fill a basin with cool water
- Add silk-safe detergent: Use a product specifically formulated for silk, or very mild baby shampoo
- Submerge and swish gently: Never twist, wring, or scrub
- Rinse thoroughly: Use cold water until all soap is removed
- Remove water gently: Lay flat on a clean white towel and roll to absorb moisture
- Dry flat: Reshape and dry away from direct heat and sunlight
Spot Cleaning
For small stains, dab (never rub) with a cloth dampened with cold water. For stubborn stains, consult a professional.
📦 Storage
Short-Term Storage
- Hang on padded hangers to prevent shoulder marks
- Cover with a breathable cotton garment bag
- Store away from direct sunlight
Long-Term Storage
- Clean thoroughly before storing
- Fold with acid-free tissue paper between layers (or roll to avoid creases)
- Store in a breathable cotton bag or wrap in a clean cotton sheet
- Add cedar blocks (not mothballs) for pest protection
- Store in a cool, dark, dry place
- Check periodically and refold to prevent permanent creases
🔧 Removing Wrinkles
Steaming (Best Method)
A handheld steamer is silk's best friend. Hold it 6-8 inches from the fabric and work in sections. Steam relaxes fibres without direct contact.
Ironing (Careful)
- Set iron to silk/low setting
- Iron while the silk is still slightly damp, or use a pressing cloth
- Iron on the wrong side of the fabric
- Keep the iron moving—never let it rest in one place
- Avoid water sprays which can cause spotting
Silk vs Synthetic: How to Tell the Difference
With modern synthetic production, it can be difficult to distinguish real silk from imitations. Here are some methods:
The Touch Test
Real silk warms quickly to your touch and has a smooth, never plastic-y feel. When you scrunch it in your hand, it makes a subtle crunching sound called "silk scroop."
The Lustre Test
Genuine silk has a subtle, shifting lustre that looks different from different angles. Synthetic silk tends to have a uniform, more "white" shine.
The Ring Test
Real silk is so fine that a genuine silk scarf can be pulled through a wedding ring. Synthetic fabric is too stiff for this.
The Burn Test (Only if You Can Sacrifice Fabric)
With a small fabric sample: Real silk burns slowly, smells like burning hair, and leaves a crushable ash. Polyester melts, smells like plastic, and leaves a hard bead.
The Price Test
If it seems too cheap to be real silk, it probably isn't. Quality silk production is labour-intensive and expensive.
Label Check
Look for specific silk type descriptions (mulberry silk, dupion silk, etc.) rather than vague "silk feel" or "silky" wording.
Frequently Asked Questions About Silk
Q: Is silk ethical?
A: Traditional silk production involves harvesting cocoons, which kills the silkworms. "Peace silk" or "Ahimsa silk" allows the moth to emerge before harvesting, though it's more expensive and less lustrous. The ethics depend on your personal values regarding animal products. Compared to synthetic fabrics, silk is biodegradable and often involves less environmental pollution.
Q: Why does silk sometimes smell odd?
A: Raw silk can have a natural "sericin" smell from the silk gum. This usually fades with airing and proper cleaning. If a silk garment develops a musty smell, it may have been stored improperly—air it out and consider professional cleaning.
Q: Can I wear silk in summer?
A: Absolutely! Silk's temperature-regulating properties make it comfortable year-round. Lightweight silk varieties like chiffon and georgette are excellent for warm weather as they breathe while maintaining elegance.
Q: My silk outfit has lost its lustre. Can it be restored?
A: Loss of lustre often comes from harsh cleaning or buildup. A professional silk cleaner may be able to restore some shine. For slight dulling, a professional steam can help revive the fabric.
Q: Is "art silk" real silk?
A: No. "Art silk" (artificial silk) refers to synthetic fibres like rayon or polyester designed to mimic silk's appearance. It's not actual silk and shouldn't be priced as such.
Q: How can I prevent silk from yellowing?
A: Yellowing usually comes from improper storage (plastic bags, direct light, humidity) or deodorant stains. Store properly in breathable containers away from light, ensure garments are completely clean before long-term storage, and avoid contact with antiperspirants.
Q: Is silk good for sensitive skin?
A: Yes! Silk is hypoallergenic, naturally resistant to dust mites, and gentle on skin. It's often recommended for people with eczema and sensitive skin conditions.
Q: How long does silk last?
A: With proper care, silk can last for decades. Many families have silk pieces passed down through generations. The key is proper cleaning, storage, and careful wear.
Final Thoughts
Silk's 5,000-year history speaks for itself—no synthetic has managed to fully replicate its unique combination of beauty, comfort, and luxury. While silk requires more care than everyday fabrics, the investment rewards you with garments that look stunning, feel wonderful, and can become family treasures.
When purchasing silk, invest in quality pieces from reputable sources, learn to recognise genuine silk, and commit to proper care. Your silk pieces will repay you with years of elegant wear.
Explore the luxury of silk: Browse our silk collection for hand-embroidered pieces crafted from the finest fabrics.
